Hand Lasting

Every shoe that I make is lasted by hand. The process of lasting is when a upper is stretched over a shoe form (last) and attached to the insole and last by nails or any sort of bracing. The following example is for a pair for cemented constructed test fitters that the customer  wears for a couple weeks before the lasts may or may not be adjusted for the final shoe. I don’t usually focus too hard on closing and clicking the uppers when doing a test fit nor do I use a high quality leather so the uppers aren’t perfect…

elrod shoes lasting

the first pull is at the toe

elrod shoes lasting 2

then checking to see the upper is not crooked

elrod shoes lasting 3

pull at the toe and ball line

elrod shoes lasting 5elrod shoes lasting 6 elrod shoes lasting 7

then pull the heel, pleat it, and pull the shank. Extra allowance for a very narrow/beveled waist in the final shoe.

elrod shoes lasting 8

heel lasted flat without wrinkles

elrod shoes lasting 9

continue up to the rear of the toe. the first nails at the toe and ball line are removed and re-pulled. The next step is lasting the lining at the toe and attaching a leather stiffener between the upper and lining. This method is called 2 phase lasting…

elrod shoes lasting 10 elrod shoes lasting 11

With the lining lasted and the toe stiffener inserted the upper is lasted at the toe.

elrod shoes lasting 12 elrod shoes lasting 13 elrod shoes lasting 14

Pleat and lasting is finished! The test fitter was a good fit, here is a picture of the final shoes I just lasted today… the next step is to handsew the welt.

elrod shoes bespoke handmade shoes

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3 Responses to Hand Lasting

  1. JT says:

    Where did you buy the Hirsch Kleber glue?

  2. A says:

    Buy the glue here (6oz jar $10 + shipping) – http://www.customboots.net/customboots.net/SNF_glues.html

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