Some recent work on a seamless wholecut
^before shine; v after shine
Finished a pair for a female client a while back but forgot to post!
And coming soon is a black calf w/ python skin gladiator oxford, we are excited for it.
Dark Brown Calf Wholecut with Sidelacing. English Welted and Navy Blue Waist + Sole Edge
^Outdoor defused lighting
^Outdoor direct sunlight
^Indoor defused lighting
Enjoy how the colors change based on the lighting
Closing the upper
Lasting
The first stitch. Extra lasting allowance for the waist but a bit much…
Before I make a final shoe I make trial fitters to test the fit, shape, and pattern of the shoe. I make mine by using lower grade leathers and just doing cemented construction (no welts the uppers are only glued to the soles). Right now I have 3 out waiting for feedback and while minor adjustments are definitely visible hopefully nothing major will need adjusting.
I am finishing a shoe right now and the customer wears their toes out quickly. Solution? Metal toe plates. But it preparation to make the plates flush with the sole and keep the stitches protected.
Nice even stitches are very satisfying. The heels on these shoes are going to have a slight contour compared to the normal flat finish. To obtain a accurate and aesthetically pleasing heel I have to “knife up” which is the process of cutting upwards toward the shoe upper. It can be a bit nerve racking and is slow going (for me) but the results are worth it.
This shoe will be finished shortly! Even though finishing is (one) of my favorite tasks and a nice finish is never done in a short period of time
Although the sole finish is walked off pretty quickly it can still be nice to have it a short period.
A close up of the toes and welt finishing
Last post I mentioned that I had been working long and hard on a design for a customer. Well here it is; an art deco inspired oxford in a smooth grey calf and red linings.
I doubt I will ever find a grey calf in this hue again but the last of it went to a worthy shoe in my opinion.
Also I finished a boot recently:
Ostrich leg toe cap and heel counters with a thick cow for the vamp and quarters.
^Freshly welted, welted freshly
The welt is trimmed to the rough shape of the sole. I have always wanted to make a balmoral sidelace….
And another sole prepped for the my favorite garden variety English welt with beveled waist. The upper for this shoe is special because I have worked for many months with a client refining a design… next post you will see.
Here is a small bit about preparation for an English welt with beveled waist:
Insole “blocked” to the last. I use a combination of nails and stretch medical bandage to snug the leather to the last.
Cut to shape
Cut the channels for the holdfast
Then carve out around the holdfast
and finally I prefer to pre-punch the holes in the insole before I last the upper. It is not necessary but it gives me a more even stitch.
Elrod Shoes 