Heel Seat Stitching

When a shoemaker completes an English welt they have multiple options about how to attach the heel. It can be glued and nailed, or pegged, or stitched multiple ways without a welt, or welted continuing around the whole shoe. I choose to stitch the heel without a welt and afterwards attach a rand.

elrod shoes handmade heal seat stitchelrod shoes heel seat stitchingelrod shoes heel seat stitchelrod shoes weltelrod shoes handmade heal stitch

The stitch I use on the heel is a different type than what I welt with but the stitch length remains the same. After this is neatly completed I peg the rand therefore completing the welt and helping it look seamless along the sole when finished.

elrod shoes handmade pegging rand elrod shoes pegging rand elrod shoes hand pegged rand

And the finished shoes while polishing…

elrod shoes boots polishing

These boots are double soled English welted with a beveled waist. The uppers are a derby pattern with ostrich leg quarters and Italian calf vamps, finished in a black with blue undertones. I stitched the soles a 10spi which took more time because I have to be careful with a skinny awl through such thick material.

elrod shoes boots double soled

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